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GR54 Tour of the Oisans and Écrins

A great, demanding loop around the Écrins massif, pass after pass, between stone villages, alpine pastures and high-altitude lakes, in the heart of a national park.

192 km15 stages11,450 m ascentHigh point 2,759 mLe Bourg-d'Oisans · Loop
192 kmDistance
15Stages
11,450 mAscent
2,759 mHigh point
102Accommodation

The profile

A 192 km loop starting from Le Bourg-d'Oisans.

500 m1,000 m1,500 m2,000 m2,500 m3,000 m0 km25 km50 km75 km100 km125 km150 km175 km123456789101112131415High point 2,759 m
Elevation profile: from 718 m to 2,749 m over 192 km.

The GR54 at a glance

The GR54 makes a complete tour of the Écrins massif, starting from and returning to Le Bourg-d’Oisans. It links the valleys of the Oisans, the Romanche, the Guisane, the Vallouise, the Valgaudemar, the Valjouffrey and the Vénéon, crossing a pass each time to go from one to the next. A large part of the route lies within the core zone of the Écrins National Park.

The scenery changes constantly: hamlets clinging to the slope above Le Bourg-d’Oisans, the village of Besse-en-Oisans and the vast pastures of the Emparis plateau facing the Meije, the glacial Lac d’Arsine, the Chambran chalets, the dark schists of the Valgaudemar, the green slopes of the Col de Côte Belle. The end of the loop goes over the Col de la Muzelle and then past the Lauvitel, the largest lake in the Oisans, before descending to the Romanche valley.

It is one of the most demanding GRs in the French Alps. The climbs and descents are long and steep, and some sections, on the borderline of high mountain terrain, require a sure foot. The Col de l’Aup Martin, the highest on the route, and the passes cut into the schist towards Vallonpierre are among the most committing moments.

The tour is therefore for fit hikers who are used to the mountains. It can be started at other points on the loop, such as La Grave or L’Argentière-la-Bessée, and split into sections of a few days for those who do not have the time needed for the full tour.

Highlights

  • A true tour of the Écrins massif, linking valleys of very different character.
  • The Emparis plateau and its views of the Meije, above Besse-en-Oisans.
  • Crossing the core zone of the Écrins National Park, with its protected flora and fauna.
  • A variety of high-altitude lakes, from Arsine to Vallonpierre, from the Muzelle to the Lauvitel.
  • Mountain villages and hamlets full of character, from Besse-en-Oisans to the Chambran chalets.

Practical information

Start and finish

Le Bourg-d'Oisans

Le Bourg-d’Oisans has no railway station: first get to Grenoble SNCF station, then to the town on the Isère regional coaches, which run daily. Other points on the loop are served by coach from Gap, Montdauphin-Guillestre, L’Argentière-les-Écrins and Briançon.

When to go

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The recommended period is from late June to mid-September. The highest passes often remain under snow until mid-July, and an ice axe and crampons may be needed early in the season. Most refuges are no longer staffed from mid-September.

Difficulty

Very hard

A very demanding route, crossing one pass after another with big height gains and losses, and including tricky sections on the borderline of high mountain terrain. It is for experienced, well-trained hikers only.

Accommodation

12 refuges, 6 gîtes, 3 unstaffed huts and 24 B&Bs

The route alternates between mountain refuges, gîtes, hotels and campsites in the villages. It is advisable to book your refuge nights in advance, as they can be full in summer. Some stages require you to be self-sufficient for food.

Rules to know

In the core zone of the Écrins National Park, dogs are banned, even on a lead, and camping, fires and picking plants are prohibited. Bivouacking is tolerated there from 7 pm to 9 am, more than an hour’s walk from road access and from the boundaries of the core zone. The Emparis plateau has its own regulations, some municipalities ban bivouacking, and at the Lauvitel and Muzelle lakes it is only possible in the dedicated areas signposted on site.

Water and supplies

Several stages cross areas with no shops: you need to carry food for those days and always keep a reserve of water and food. The boundaries of the park’s core zone are marked by blue-white-red marks painted on the rocks. In the alpine pastures, livestock guardian dogs mean you should walk around the herd and let the dog identify you.

The GR54 on the map

The 15 stages

TrekGR stage plan: each stage ends where you can sleep. Actual walking time excluding breaks (DIN 33466 standard).

Where to stay

102 places to stay near the route, from refuges to campsites.

Live updates

No current alerts for this GR (checked on 12 November 2026). All live updates →

Our advice

Frequently asked questions

Where does the GR54 start?

The usual start is Le Bourg-d’Oisans, where the loop closes. The tour can also be started at La Grave, at L’Argentière-la-Bessée or in any hamlet on the route.

When should you walk the GR54?

From late June to mid-September. In early summer, snow can linger on the highest passes until mid-July, and most refuges stop being staffed around mid-September.

Can you bivouac on the GR54?

Yes, under certain conditions. In the core zone of the national park, bivouacking is allowed from 7 pm to 9 am, more than an hour’s walk from roads and from the boundaries of the core zone; at the Lauvitel and Muzelle lakes, it is restricted to dedicated areas. Read the Écrins National Park regulations before setting off.

Can you walk the GR54 with a dog?

Not for the full tour: the GR54 crosses the core zone of the Écrins National Park several times, and dogs are banned there, even on a lead or carried.

How do you get to Le Bourg-d’Oisans without a car?

You need to get to Grenoble SNCF station, then take an Isère regional coach to Le Bourg-d’Oisans; these services run daily. There is no SNCF station directly on the GR54.

Do you need to book GR54 refuges?

It is strongly recommended: in summer, refuges can be full and unable to take in hikers without a booking.

Route: OpenStreetMap contributors. Elevation: IGN’s RGE ALTI®, one point every 50 m. Text checked on 10 November 2026.

Other GR trails: Alps