Way of St James Mediterranean and Provence · South-West · Pyrenees · Ways of St James
GR653GR653 Arles route, via Tolosana
The southern route to Santiago: from the Camargue to the Pyrenees, through the garrigue, the hills of the Haut-Languedoc, Toulouse and the rolling Gascon countryside.
804 km 499.6 mi36 stages12,100 m 39,698 ft ascentHigh point 1,555 m 5,102 ftArles → Col du Somport
0 m500 m1,000 m1,500 m2,000 m0 km100 km200 km300 km400 km500 km600 km700 km800 km15101520253035High point 1,555 m
Elevation profile: from 1 m to 1,555 m over 803.5 km.
The GR653 at a glance
The GR653 follows the Arles route, also known as the via Tolosana, the southernmost of the four great French routes to Santiago de Compostela. It starts in Arles, crosses Languedoc and Toulouse, then Gascony and Béarn, before crossing the Pyrenees at the Col du Somport, at an altitude of 1,632 m according to MonGR. It is the only one of the great pilgrim routes to cross this pass rather than going via Roncesvalles. On the Spanish side, the route descends towards Jaca and joins the Camino francés at Puente la Reina.
The landscapes are very varied: the Camargue plain, the Costières du Gard and the garrigue, then chestnut forests and the granite terrain of the Haut-Languedoc (Séranne, Escandorgue, Espinouse, Sidobre). Next come the Lauragais plain and the Seuil de Naurouze, the Gascon hills and the Pyrenean foothills, as far as the Aspe valley. In places, the route follows the line of the via Domitia, described by MonGR as the oldest Roman road in Gaul.
The Arles route calls for a degree of self-sufficiency: villages are sometimes far apart, which makes some stages longer. It suits walkers who are already used to walking day after day, whether they do it in one go or in sections, for example from Arles to Montpellier, from Montpellier to Toulouse, then from Toulouse to the Pyrenees.
Romanesque heritage, the abbey church of Saint-Gilles, the abbey of Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, the towns of Auch, Lescar and Oloron-Sainte-Marie: the route is also a journey through the history of the south of France.
Highlights
The start in Arles, a Roman city, and the crossing of the Camargue to the abbey church of Saint-Gilles.
Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert and its former abbey, a highlight of the route in Languedoc.
The hills of the Haut-Languedoc, with their chestnut groves and granite boulder fields.
Crossing Toulouse, home of the Agence française des chemins de Compostelle.
The hills of Gascony and the arrival at the foot of the Béarn Pyrenees.
Crossing the Col du Somport, the highest point on the routes to Santiago according to MonGR.
Practical information
Start
Arles
Arles has an SNCF station served by regional trains of the Région Sud. Before setting off, the town’s pilgrim heritage (Alyscamps, Saint-Honorat church, Saint-Trophime cathedral) is well worth a visit.
Finish
Col du Somport
The Col du Somport is served by a regional coach (line 550) that runs down the Aspe valley to Bedous, from where the TER continues to Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Pau. The Nouvelle-Aquitaine region sells a combined Pau – Bedous – Canfranc train and coach ticket all year round; check schedules and stops before setting off.
When to go
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MonGR recommends spring and fall between Arles and Toulouse. The Col du Somport is usually passable from early June to late October and often impassable from November to April: you need to time your start so as to get there within that window.
Difficulty
Challenging
No technical difficulty, but a very long route, with marked climbs in the Haut-Languedoc, villages that are sometimes far apart and a final climb to a Pyrenean pass.
Gîtes, pilgrim hosts, B&Bs, hotels and campgrounds line the route, some of them with the “Accueil – Chemins de Compostelle en France” label. As villages are sometimes far apart, it is best to book at least the day before.
Rules to know
During the hunting season, MonGR asks walkers not to stray from the waymarked route. For the Col du Somport, check the snow cover with the PGHM in Oloron-Sainte-Marie or the Bedous tourist office. The pilgrim passport is recommended for access to accommodation reserved for pilgrims.
Water and supplies
According to the Agence des chemins de Compostelle, villages are far apart on two or three stages, which means carrying water and a picnic. In Arles, several sets of waymarks coexist: after that, follow the white-and-red waymarks of the GR653, continuous along the whole route.
The GR653 on the map
The 36 stages
TrekGR stage plan: each stage ends where you can sleep. Actual walking time excluding breaks (DIN 33466 standard).
No current alerts for this GR (checked on November 12, 2026). All live updates →
Our advice
Get your pilgrim passport before setting off from a St James association or the Agence des chemins de Compostelle, and have it stamped every day.
Avoid high summer in Languedoc and carry several liters of water on the garrigue stages.
Check the conditions at the Col du Somport before starting up the Aspe valley, especially early and late in the season.
Bring warm clothes and rain gear for the mountain finish, even in summer.
For a first try, MonGR suggests sections of about a week, such as Arles – Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert via Montpellier.
Frequently asked questions
Arles route, via Tolosana, GR653: what is the difference?
None: they are three names for the same route. “Via Tolosana” refers to its passage through Toulouse, and GR653 is the number of the trail waymarked by the FFRandonnée, opened in 1990 according to the Agence des chemins de Compostelle.
When can you cross the Col du Somport on foot?
MonGR states that the pass is usually passable from early June to late October, sometimes from May, and generally impassable from November to April. Before heading up, check the snow cover with the PGHM in Oloron-Sainte-Marie or the Bedous tourist office.
Where can you get the pilgrim passport for the Arles route?
From a St James association, often with membership, or from the Agence des chemins de Compostelle, based in Toulouse on the route, which also sells it online. It is recommended in France for pilgrim gîtes and compulsory in the albergues in Spain.
How do you get back after the Col du Somport?
A regional coach links the Somport to Bedous, in the Aspe valley, and the TER runs from Bedous to Oloron-Sainte-Marie and Pau. The Nouvelle-Aquitaine region sells a Pau – Bedous – Canfranc train and coach pass all year round.
Can you join the Arles route from other routes?
Yes. The GR653D (via Domitia) and the GR653A (via Aurelia) are approach routes that lead to Arles, and a link via the GR62B, GR36 and GR46 connects Conques, on the Le Puy route, to Toulouse.
Route: OpenStreetMap contributors. Elevation: IGN’s RGE ALTI®, one point every 50 m. Text checked on November 10, 2026.
Other GR trails: Mediterranean and Provence, South-West
