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Long traverse Massif Central

GR70 Stevenson Trail

In the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey Modestine, the GR70 crosses the Velay, the Gévaudan and Mont Lozère to the Cévennes.

270 km14 stages6,800 m ascentHigh point 1,698 mLe Puy-en-Velay → Alès
270 kmDistance
14Stages
6,800 mAscent
1,698 mHigh point
144Accommodation

The profile

From Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès, over 270 km.

0 m500 m1,000 m1,500 m2,000 m0 km50 km100 km150 km200 km250 km1234567891011121314High point 1,698 m
Elevation profile: from 132 m to 1,692 m over 270.3 km.

The GR70 at a glance

The GR70, or Stevenson Trail, follows in the footsteps of the Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson, who crossed the southern Massif Central on foot in 1878 with a she-donkey, Modestine, and drew from it his account Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. The waymarked trail now links Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès; the historic section, the writer’s own, starts from Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille and ends at Saint-Jean-du-Gard.

The route crosses four departments, Haute-Loire, Ardèche, Lozère and Gard, and four very distinct areas. The Velay alternates between volcanoes and cultivated high plateaux; the Gévaudan mixes small valleys, forests, meadows and wetlands; Mont Lozère unrolls its granite ridges, rich in springs; then come the valleys of the Cévennes.

The GR70 follows the writer’s route almost everywhere. The only notable exception: between Le Pont-de-Montvert and Cocurès, the trail goes along the ridges, because the old path along the Tarn valley has given way to a road. The route also crosses the Cévennes National Park, whose core zone has a few rules, especially for bivouacking and dogs.

The Stevenson Trail suits regular walkers and families alike. It can be walked with a pack donkey hired from a donkey owner, or with a luggage transfer service. Waymarked in both directions, it is mostly walked from north to south, and it is busiest in May and September.

Highlights

  • Walking in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson, with the account of his 1878 journey in your pocket.
  • Hiring a pack donkey and travelling like the writer with Modestine.
  • Crossing four very different areas: the volcanic Velay, the Gévaudan, granite Mont Lozère and the Cévennes.
  • Crossing Mont Lozère and discovering the Cévennes National Park.
  • Relying on a well-tried set-up: varied accommodation, luggage transfers and shuttles.
  • Splitting the walk as you wish, as some stages are served by train or coach.

Practical information

Start

Le Puy-en-Velay

Le Puy-en-Velay has an SNCF station. To start at Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, the historic starting point, a coach line links Le Puy to the village on weekdays only.

Finish

Alès

Alès has an SNCF station. From Saint-Jean-du-Gard, the end of the historic section, coaches run to Alès (via Anduze or Mialet, except Sundays and public holidays) and Nîmes.

When to go

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The association recommends May and June for the wild flowers and the long days, September and October for the autumn colours; July and August are also suitable. Most accommodation is open from Easter to All Saints’ Day.

Difficulty

Moderate

A mid-mountain route that families walk, sometimes with young children; crossing Mont Lozère and a few long stages nevertheless call for stamina.

Accommodation

1 refuge, 32 gîtes, 3 unstaffed huts and 1 youth hostel

There is plenty of accommodation, from gîtes to campsites: by adapting your stages, you can sleep only in gîtes or only at campsites. Most places close for part of the winter. The association does not take bookings: you need to book directly with the accommodation, preferably well in advance.

Rules to know

In the core zone of the Cévennes National Park, bivouacking is allowed for a single night, from 7 pm to 9 am, without a tent or in a light tent, no more than 50 m from a GR or GRP trail, except on a few sensitive sections where it is forbidden, including the area around the summit of Finiels on the GR70; fires are forbidden there and wild camping remains prohibited. Dogs are accepted on the trail, but a lead is compulsory in the core zone of the Park. Part of the route is closed to mountain bikes, including the climb to Finiels.

Water and supplies

Several stage villages have neither a grocer’s nor a bakery, including Goudet, Luc, Cheylard-l’Évêque, Mirandol, Le Bonnetès, Les Alpiers, Finiels, Mijavols and Cocurès: bring your own picnics or order them from your accommodation. Carry enough water between two villages.

The GR70 on the map

The 14 stages

TrekGR stage plan: each stage ends where you can sleep. Actual walking time excluding breaks (DIN 33466 standard).

StageRouteDistanceAscentDescent
1Le Puy-en-Velay → Châteauneuf21.4 km640 m410 m
2Châteauneuf → Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas21.6 km680 m320 m
3Le Bouchet-Saint-Nicolas → Pradelles21.1 km310 m360 m
4Pradelles → Fouzilhac19.3 km390 m340 m
5Fouzilhac → Laveyrune17.6 km290 m520 m
6Laveyrune → Chabalier21.8 km630 m460 m
7Chabalier → Le Bleymard21.3 km540 m610 m
8Le Bleymard → Le Pont-de-Montvert19.5 km610 m820 m
9Le Pont-de-Montvert → La Valette18.1 km670 m650 m
10La Valette → Balazuègnes19.9 km290 m540 m
11Balazuègnes → Le Cros19.5 km430 m200 m
12Le Cros → Perret15.2 km120 m730 m
13Perret → Mialet17 km630 m710 m
14Mialet → Alès17.1 km610 m660 m

Where to stay

144 places to stay near the route, from refuges to campsites.

Live updates

No current alerts for this GR (checked on 12 November 2026). All live updates →

Our advice

Frequently asked questions

Where does the Stevenson Trail start?

The GR70 is waymarked from Le Puy-en-Velay to Alès. Stevenson’s historic route starts at Le Monastier-sur-Gazeille, linked to Le Puy by a weekday coach, and ends at Saint-Jean-du-Gard.

Where can you hire a donkey for the Stevenson Trail?

The association Sur le chemin de Robert Louis Stevenson lists the hirers on its Hire a donkey page. A donkey carries around forty kilos on average and matches its pace to that of an unhurried walker; an alternative route is provided for it between Saint-Jean-du-Gard and Alès.

Can you bivouac on the Stevenson Trail?

In the core zone of the Cévennes National Park, bivouacking is allowed for one night, from 7 pm to 9 am, in a light tent and no more than 50 m from the GR trail, except on a few sensitive sections such as the area around the summit of Finiels. Wild camping is in principle forbidden in France.

Can you walk the Stevenson Trail with a dog?

Yes, provided you check that your accommodation accepts dogs and keep yours on a lead in the core zone of the Cévennes National Park, where this is compulsory.

Can you have your luggage transported?

Yes. Several carriers pick up luggage from your accommodation every morning and drop it off at the next stage. They mostly work in the north-south direction.

When is the best time to walk the Stevenson Trail?

May–June and September–October are the most recommended periods, but summer is fine too, with the heather in bloom in August. In winter, most accommodation is closed and the waymarks disappear under the snow.

Route: OpenStreetMap contributors. Elevation: IGN’s RGE ALTI®, one point every 50 m. Text checked on 10 November 2026.

Other GR trails: Massif Central