Way of St James Centre and Loire Valley · South-West · Ways of St James
GR654GR654 Vézelay route, via Lemovicensis
A great pilgrim route with a rural character: from the basilica of Vézelay to the Basque Country, through the Berry, the Limousin, the Périgord and the Landes forest.
1,050 km45 stages10,550 m ascentHigh point 677 mVézelay → Uhart-Mixe
0 m250 m500 m750 m0 km200 km400 km600 km800 km1,000 km151015202530354045High point 677 m
Elevation profile: from 12 m to 651 m over 1,049.5 km.
The GR654 at a glance
The GR654 follows the Vézelay route, called the via Lemovicensis because it passes through Limoges. The FFRandonnée starts it in Namur, in Belgium, but the historic and most common starting point remains the basilica of Vézelay, on its “eternal hill”. The route then crosses the whole of west-central France to the Basque Country, where it joins the Le Puy route (GR65) near Saint-Palais, at the Gibraltar stele, before Ostabat and Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.
As early as Burgundy, there are two branches: one via La Charité-sur-Loire and Nevers, the other via Bourges. They meet up in the Indre, at Gargilesse-Dampierre. Next come the Limousin countryside, Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat and Limoges, then the Périgord and Périgueux. At Bergerac, another choice: the western branch heads off towards Sainte-Foy-la-Grande, the Entre-deux-Mers, the great Landes forest and Béarn; the eastern branch crosses the hills of the Agenais and joins the GR65 at Montréal-du-Gers.
The Agence des chemins de Compostelle describes it as a rural route, with a rich medieval heritage and varied landscapes. Its level is rated “suitable for all”, but the distance is considerable: it lends itself well to being discovered section by section, over several trips.
It suits walkers drawn to the countryside, with stops in towns of art and history (Bourges, Nevers, Limoges, Périgueux) and a long immersion in rural France.
Highlights
The start from the basilica of Vézelay, on its Burgundian “eternal hill”.
The choice between two branches at the start, via Nevers or Bourges and their cathedrals.
The landscapes of the Indre and the village of Gargilesse, which have inspired many artists.
The Limousin, from the collegiate church of Saint-Léonard-de-Noblat to Limoges.
The Périgord and Périgueux cathedral, then the crossing of the Landes forest.
The junction with the Le Puy route at the Gibraltar stele, in the Basque Country.
Practical information
Start
Vézelay
The nearest station to Vézelay is Sermizelles-Vézelay, on a line from Paris-Bercy. A Mobigo road shuttle links the station to Asquins and Vézelay; ask the Grand Vézelay tourist office for details.
Finish
Uhart-Mixe
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the end of the Vézelay route via the GR65, is linked to Bayonne by train. In Béarn, an intercity coach line links Orthez to Saint-Palais via Sauveterre-de-Béarn.
When to go
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The Agence des chemins de Compostelle recommends March to October, and MonGR considers the route walkable all year round. Outside this period, check that accommodation is open before setting off.
Difficulty
Moderate
A route of plains and hills, with no technical sections, rated “suitable for all” by the Agence des chemins de Compostelle; the difficulty lies mainly in the length and in walking stage after stage.
Accommodation
1 refuge, 31 gîtes, 1 youth hostel and 47 B&Bs
Gîtes, B&Bs, pilgrim hosts, hotels and campsites, with a directory kept by the Agence des chemins de Compostelle. In Vézelay, the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem run two guesthouses, and there is a youth hostel. As the route is rural, it is best to book at least the day before.
Rules to know
No special regulations. The pilgrim passport, recommended for access to accommodation reserved for pilgrims, does not replace an identity document.
Water and supplies
Two sets of waymarks run side by side: the white-and-red of the GR654, maintained by the FFRandonnée, and the yellow-on-blue European scallop shell of the “pilgrims’ path” laid out by the Amis de Saint-Jacques. The two routes do not coincide everywhere: choose one and stick to it. Carry water and a picnic for the long stretches through countryside and forest.
The GR654 on the map
The 45 stages
TrekGR stage plan: each stage ends where you can sleep. Actual walking time excluding breaks (DIN 33466 standard).
No current alerts for this GR (checked on 12 November 2026). All live updates →
Our advice
Decide before setting off which branch you will follow (Nevers or Bourges, then west or east after Bergerac) and get the corresponding documentation.
Follow just one set of waymarks, white-and-red or the yellow and blue shell, so as not to switch from one route to the other without realising.
Have your pilgrim passport stamped at accommodation, churches, town halls or tourist offices to keep a record of your journey.
Book your nights at least the day before, as the choice is sometimes sparse in the countryside.
For a first section, MonGR suggests Vézelay – La Charité-sur-Loire or La Souterraine – Limoges, each in less than a week.
Frequently asked questions
Where does the GR654 end?
Its western branch joins the GR65 at the Gibraltar stele, in the municipality of Uhart-Mixe near Saint-Palais, before Ostabat. The Vézelay route then continues on the GR65 to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. The eastern branch joins the GR65 at Montréal-du-Gers.
Why are there two sets of waymarks on the Vézelay route?
The GR654 is waymarked in white and red by the FFRandonnée. The Amis de Saint-Jacques have also laid out a “pilgrims’ path”, waymarked with the yellow and blue European scallop shell, according to the Agence des chemins de Compostelle. The two routes can diverge: it is best to follow just one.
Should you go via Bourges or via Nevers?
Both branches start from Vézelay and meet up at Gargilesse-Dampierre, in the Indre. The first goes via La Charité-sur-Loire and Nevers, the second via Bourges: the choice depends mainly on which towns you want to visit.
Where can you get the pilgrim passport to set off from Vézelay?
From a St James association, often with membership, or online from the Agence des chemins de Compostelle. For a start in Belgium, MonGR mentions the Association belge des Amis de Saint-Jacques-de-Compostelle, which is authorised to issue it.
How do you get to Vézelay without a car?
By train to Sermizelles-Vézelay station, served from Paris-Bercy, then by Mobigo road shuttle to Asquins or Vézelay. Check the timetables with the Grand Vézelay tourist office.
Does the GR654 start in Vézelay?
Not for the FFRandonnée: the GR654 starts in Namur, in Belgium, follows the Meuse and the Marne, and crosses the Ardennes and Champagne before reaching Vézelay. The historic Vézelay route, for its part, starts at the basilica.
Route: OpenStreetMap contributors. Elevation: IGN’s RGE ALTI®, one point every 50 m. Text checked on 10 November 2026.
Other GR trails: Centre and Loire Valley, South-West
